Hike around Palmaria Island is not a stroll in the park

L and D atop Palmaria

OK, so maybe the Adventurers could do a bit more research before they set off on their treks. But, on surface, the trail around (most) of Palmaria Island looked like a longish (11 km) but otherwise pleasant hike.

Part of the adventure was taking the boat from Portovenere across the channel to the island. From various vantage points, they’d spied the walkers on the island. It all looks level from the port town to its island neighbor.

Pozale harbor

The only hint of civilization was the sleepy town of Pozale, with its one restaurant and pretty harbor (pictured above).

Their boat was bustling with Saturday picnickers, including a large group celebrating a woman’s 50th birthday party. Most of their fellow travelers had packed picnic lunches. They had water and a couple of Cliff bars.

Difficile sign

The walk started off on a broad path for a good mile or so. It then turned up – and up and up. Some of the footing was loose stones or slick rocks. They made their way steadily up the hillside, finally arriving at a lighthouse that was packed with a large group of Italian trekkers, most who had poles. They had not brought theirs, which they came to regret on the way down.

Their first hint of “trouble,” was the sign that warned that the downhill trail was “difficile.” That was a bit of an understatement. It was very, very steep and featured more rocks and slippery sole.

owner chef at Locanda LorenaThey took their time, stopping to answer questions of a number of fellow trekkers who wanted to know how much longer it was to the top. Hiking uphill was no easy go.

They finally made it down. They grabbed a bite to eat at Loconda Lorena, overseen by owner chef Giuseppe Basso. As a number reviews have noted, service is absolutely dreadful, particularly when you’re tired and hunger. But L’s mussels were among the best she’s ever eatern.

Waiting for the return boat, they enjoyed swapping experiences with a (younger) French couple who hadn’t made it all the way around. They figure a relatively few undertake the challenging trek. But they’re glad they did…

Hike/moderately difficult/six miles

Morning “stair master” hike in town/1.2 miles

This entry was posted in Italy September 2015 and tagged , . Bookmark the permalink.

One Response to Hike around Palmaria Island is not a stroll in the park

  1. Ginger Terry says:

    We took a vigorous hike on the island, but we had a guide, so ours was not as strenuous or long. We did come back that evening for dinner on a boat for a seafood dinner. All pre-ordered, so no waiting. Enjoying your commentary! It’s fun to see that little has changed!

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